By the time last night’s party wrapped up another taiko lesson had been scheduled, again for the afternoon. Even after sending home sushi and snacks with Yoshio’s family and Akane there was still an (cough, Ryoko, cough) abundance of food. We had leftovers for breakfast.
Our flight wasn’t until 5 pm. The wind was still absolutely howling but was due to die down a bit by the late afternoon. I wonder how long Hachijo can go without a shipment from the mainland? They’re probably used to having supply gaps.
Yuko had more plans for us. First was a dance and taiko performance by another group on the island, based in the community on the other side of the tunnel. They did a little performance every Wednesday at 10:30, and Yuko had us there by 10:00 to get good seats. A little after we arrived the crowd we saw at the kyon enclosure showed up! A nice gentleman chatted us up and let us know they were a tour group from Tokyo.
While we waited for the performance Michele and Yuko started playing on a drum off to the side, trying out their Hachijo style. The whole relaxed island scene made this feel like a fine thing to do, just start playing.
The performers did about a dozen dances for us. They were dressed in the local fabric, dyed a natural yellow from an island plant.
They then did a little taiko.
The finale involved cajoling the front row of the audience (us!), and definitely the two tall and awkward gaijin, up onto the stage for a little dance number. Mr. Tokyo-tour-group behind us made sure Bill and I got up there. I have pointedly not tried to figure out if anyone took video of that one.
On the way back we stopped off at the tunnel view point for some more photos, since it was so clear. The wind was even stronger than the day before, almost dangerous near the railing. Hold tight to your phone Yuko!
The flying fish on the railing is part of the island culture. Called tobiuo, we had it as sushi the night before (shimazushi) and they also have an old method of preserving it called kusaya. Kusaya is first salted in a horrendous looking continuously reused brine, then dried. It stinks, and they are proud of it. It’s more or less Japanese lutefisk.
In the afternoon we all took a turn at weaving. A shop had four looms set up for tourists to make a swatch. Each loom had its own warp pattern set up, and it was up to us to complete a pattern with the weft. The yellow and green colors are made using a native dye. Our teacher fussed a lot over my hand position as I shuttled the weft back and forth, used the card and worked the warp with my feet. I wasn’t quite doing it correctly but the language barrier made it difficult to understand just what wasn’t proper. In any case, our little cloth patches will be mailed home to us in a few weeks.
If the previous day’s taiko lesson was about how Hachijo style is creative and free form, today’s was more about the structure behind that free form. More listening to your partner, counting phrases, the Ji bass beat, and so on. The class concluded with a longish session of Hachijo style playing, with each drummer switching in and out. From outside the lodge it sounded pretty good!
After Michele’s and Ryoko’s class at Y-Lulu we had a long goodbye with Yoshio-sensei and then we were back at the airport, all of maybe two blocks away. The winds were a little calmer and the plane was definitely flying. The merch at the airport gift shop was good. We skipped the smelly fish and these enourmous lemons.
Before we departed through (the one and only) Gate 1 who should show up but Yoshio and Kaori! With gifts! Ryoko and Michele both got 24-hour challenge commemorative T-Shirts. We then had another long and warm goodbye, complete with requests that we come back to help with a future challenge. OK!
At the little security check they had me take off my shoes, and this being Japan they of course have some slippers to wear for the 10 foot walk to the other side of the scanners. They earnestly wanted me to wear them. And this being Japan of course the slippers were all one size – medium. Because what other size is needed? My “friend” Ryoko snapped this photo.
On the flight back to Tokyo we could see the mainland Fuji-san at sunset.
Ken Chin-Purcell 