Michele and I sent our luggage ahead to the Mitsui Garden hotel in Shiodome (central Tokyo), then with only a small duffle bag and daypacks we headed to Haneda airport. Ah, sing the glories of Ta-Q-Bin and bags free travel. We were going to catch a plane to little Hachijō-jima, an island about 180 miles due south of Tokyo Bay. It takes about eleven hours by ferry or an hour by plane to get there.
The Izu islands are a string of over a dozen volcanic outcroppings extending southward from Tokyo, all part of Tokyo prefecture. Nine are inhabited. Hachijo is just big enough for an airport, although reportedly the runway is the shortest in Japan.
Some of the islands have developed their own taiko style, like Miyake island, perhaps as a way to pass the time out there in the Pacific Ocean. The Tsumura brothers from Miyake have been teaching Miyake taiko at workshops, so the Miyake style is fairly well known in the Taiko community. Michele and friend Cathy have been driving up to Los Angeles to play Miyake once a month with a club at Asano in Torrance. Now Michele and Ryoko would have a chance to learn a bit of the Hachijo style. Word was that a teacher named Yoshio gave lessons, so meeting up with Yoshio-san the next day was part of the plan.
Yuko met us at Haneda airport to catch the same flight. We hosted Yuko last year when she and Chie visited San Diego, and now Yuko wanted to be a host to us out on Hachijo and show us around a little bit. What a treat!
But first we had to get there. There was some worry about the flight. High winds are common out where Izu islands are, and there was a gale warning posted for Hachijo for the next couple of days. We heard stories of planes not being able to land and turning around, or circling around in high winds for another pass at it, etc. If you are the nervous type about flying it was not comforting.
It turns out the flight was fine. The winds were high but a steady 30-40 mph headwind. Our little 737 handled the short runway with aplomb. Hachijo airport has just one gate for its three flights a day, but with a full jetway and a little baggage carousel. This would prove to be a theme, lots of infrastructure for just 8000 residents. They do get tourists though. One gal brought her surf board. I wonder if she ever got in the water, it looked like a wild washing machine all around us for the three days we were there.
We emerged from Gate 1 to be greeted by Yoshio-san, and wife Kaori-san! A welcoming committee! So nice of them!
Hachijo has some of the same vibe as rural Hawaii. Lots of flowers. People driving at a relaxed pace. Hibiscus growing like hedges.
We stayed at Y-Lulu Lodge, an informal feeling hostel. Michele has taiko connections to the owners. Akane was our host and former owner. She has been living on Hachijo for over 40 years and loves it.
There was a row rooms connected by a breezeway. Each room had a ladder up to a sleeping area. Communal bathrooms and sheltered but outdoor sinks were down the outdoor hall. A urinal was in a corner, out in the open but a little out of the way. I thought it was pretty handy and floated the concept of a hallway urinal back at our house to Michele, but that idea didn’t go anywhere.
There was also a small lodge with a common room and a small commercial kitchen. It all felt like being back at camp.
Yuko loaded us into a rental van and started us on a tour of the island. First were the flower fields next door to Y-Lulu. Freesia! They smelled amazing, even in the wind.
Next we drove up a dramatic bridge towards a tunnel, but stopped just before to take in the view. That’s little Hachijo Kojima (little island) out there.
Then through the tunnel and into another settled area known for its taiko playing.
We stopped at a beautiful waterfall. Nearby was a natural outdoor onsen, which I didn’t take pictures because people were using it. You needed a swim suit to use the coed onsen, and guess who both didn’t pack their swim suits. Argh. We were reminded of the prime rule of packing: always bring a swim suit.
The roads were often lined with stone walls made from large watermelon shaped cobbles gathered on the shore. We drove for probably 20 minutes without passing another car. We went past a couple of dragon murals to another view. They must clean the moss off of the dragons, because it grows on everything else.
It was a great little tour! Ryoko did the ordering at the izakaya for dinner, which is always fun and a bit dangerous. Ryoko is some opposite of Michele when it comes to getting food. Michele tends towards the minimum needed, ideally no waste. Ryoko goes for abundance. Amongst the treats was this nori topped pizza. Pretty good!
Ken Chin-Purcell 