In the 1990’s the people of sleepy Kokonoe were getting tired of watching cars zip by on their way to onsen towns like Beppu and back to the big city of Fukuoka, but never stopping at their humble mountain town. So they thought about what was special about their area (a deep gorge) and dreamed big. They submitted a proposal to build a dramatic pedestrian suspension swing bridge above that deep gorge. There wasn’t much to walk to on the other side but the views 120m down and two waterfalls from the middle would be fantastic. And they got the loan! 2 billion yen, payable over 20 years. The called the bridge the Kokonoe Yume Otsuribashi, or Dream Suspension Bridge. It was a pure “build it and they will come” gamble.
And they came! We came too! Kokonoe paid off that loan in just a few years and now they have some nice community things back in town. And we got to stretch our legs and walk across what is admittedly a tourist trap, but definitely an enjoyable tourist trap.
Our day’s walk proper began a few miles away on country roads. The area is known for growing shiitake mushrooms and we saw some drying beside the road. We fed some cute miniature horses. We also passed a campground consisting of old railroad cars that were in rough shape. They were flying some koi wind socks in anticipation of children’s day. The countryside had burn scars from the yearly controlled burns they do to keep back the forest.
This walk was at a fairly high elevation and the wind was whipping. There wasn’t much was green yet, kind of bleak to be honest. We emerged onto some wide mountain fields below the Kuju mountains, part of Aso-Kuju park. On the other side of the mountains was Nabegataki falls, where we were several days ago.
Outside the mountain cafe where we had lunch was a statue tribute to the Ainu dog breed. I missed a picture of a couple with their Ainu dog posing next to the statue.
We were too early in the season to really enjoy the Chojabaru grasslands, there were barely any plants sprouting. The Kuju volcanic mountains are very dramatic though,
Our ryokan in Nagayu Onsen is great, it has several baths in various formats. Michele and I used a little one where you get in and then round a corner to be outside, looking at ducks on the river. The overflow of our mineral water onsen flowed into the river, and some koi were hanging out there enjoying the warm influx to their stream. Our ryokan also owns a more modern onsen up the street where the water is carbonated. As you sit in the lightly fizzy water little bubbles form all over you. The building is very interesting, designed by the architect Terunobu Fujimori. The siding is burnt cedar.
There’s also a crab shaped outdoor onsen next to the river, which is how all the onsens used to be back in the day. Alas the river area is under construction, so no nighttime skinny dipping for us. There’s an attached story about a crab, a monk and a beautiful girl that you can ask me about next time we see each other.
Our ryokan made a big fuss over my height when I walked in. How will he fit on the futon?! Why did no one tell us this giant was coming!? When we returned to our room after dinner they had laid out an extra pad for my feet. They really are very thoughtful.
Ken Chin-Purcell 