Lest you think this trip is all about mythical lions and Taiko drums, with the occasional aquatic rodent, today will correct that impression. It’s the big day that we’ve all been waiting for, it’s pottery time. OK, maybe it’s just the day I’ve been waiting for.
At least our rental car is excited. Look at it perk its ears!
We started at the Kyushu Ceramics Museum in Arita. Arita has been a center of Japanese porcelain production since the 1500’s, first because being near Nagasaki gave it access to Chinese pottery knowledge, then because a large porcelain clay deposit was discovered.
Everywhere we go there are cherry blossoms. Here for example at the museum entrance.
At first Arita ceramics imitated Chinese ceramics, up until around 1650. Then China had a civil war, Chinese exports dwindled and Arita swooped in to fill demand for that Chinese look. Then in the 1700’s China sorted itself out, swamped the market and Arita had to figure out what’s next. So even though that 1650-1730 era is considered the height of Arita ceramics I kind of like the stuff that came later. It looks more Japanese.
Here are some favorites.
Fisherman Urashima Tarō is riding a magic turtle to go see the Emperor of the Sea. He gets to hang out with the princess for a couple of days but then there’s a plot twist.
There’s often head scratchers for me with Japanese pottery, and here is one from today.
Really well thrown bowl, nice slip decoration, then copper and iron glazes with loads of drips and dry clay in the center. Huh.
We went for lunch at a ceramics store and cafe nearby, and despite things being quiet outside it was mobbed inside. I’m glad we waited for a table though, good tasting food on good looking dishes.
After lunch we went over to the central pottery street, where almost every shop was closed. So the Museum is closed Mondays but the shops are closed Tuesdays. It’s a street full of traditional buildings though and walls built from kiln bricks.
The local shrine was open, with its porcelain Torī and Shishi. I donated 300¥ for a ceramic ball with a hole in it, which I blew into three times and then dropped into the hole in the tree trunk for good luck. I didn’t hear anything when I dropped it, silent.
We also went to the Arita Sera area that showcased modern Japanese production porcelain, which is beautiful but not really what I was looking for. Hopefully tomorrow I can find some craft potters.
To round out the day we hiked short ways up Ryumon gorge. There was a rock that looked like Fuji-san, so I tried to warm my hands over it.
Dinner was at a tiny gyoza restaurant near our hotel. It was great, there was a super friendly crew working. When we tapped the “I’m ready to order” button the whole kitchen did a cheerful “Hai!” in unison.
Kampai!
Ken Chin-Purcell 